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Travel
Oregon

By Matt Kettmann


There's solitude on the Oregon Coast that's unattainable in most beach-lined states. Fitful, inclement northwestern weather and warmer climes in the south tend to draw the typical beach-going folk elsewhere.

But beach life and all its festive seasonal trappings are alive and well in Oregon, and just a few years ago, I made the Oregon Coast part of my fall traveling schedule and rejoiced in finding sleepy port towns with down-to-earth crab houses and sandy shores without the jam-packed beaches. Indeed, save for the quaint villages and working harbors, not a whole lot has changed since Lewis and Clark ended their westward voyage on the Oregon shores 200 years ago.

So make like those first Western travelers to the Pacific Northwest, and begin your adventure close to where Lewis and Clark ended theirs. Take a driving tour of the Columbia River Gorge by starting a couple hundred miles east of Portland at the Tamastslikt Cultural Institute, an established Native American museum run by the Umatilla tribes that gives a special rendering of the land and peoples that the Corps of Discovery encountered.

Driving toward the coast along the massive Columbia, stop at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center in The Dalles for a full look at Lewis and Clark's Oregon itinerary, and then keep heading toward Portland while watching the kite surfers and sailboarders cruise the river's wind-whipped waters. After a couple days of driving, you'll find yourself in the charming hillside river town of Astoria, which is just five miles north of the Fort Clatsop National Memorial.

As the 1805-1806 overwintering outpost of the Lewis and Clark expedition, Fort Clatsop's replicated grounds serve as a fitting memorial to the efforts of the 33-member traveling team. Visitors can experience the hard work and daily challenges endured by those preeminent American discoverers, such as salt-making from sea water and canoeing the nearby waterways.

If you end up in Astoria toward the end of September, keep going south to Seaside, deemed the "End of the Lewis and Clark Trail." Situated along the wide stretch of beach where Lewis and Clark finally glimpsed the mighty Pacific, Seaside hosts the annual Sand Sculpture and Beach Festival this September 24 through 26. Beneath the soaring kites and amongst the crowds of birdwatchers who come to watch migrating flocks of seabirds fly by in the fall, the West Coast's top sandsmen converge to turn Seaside's shoreline into a whimsical stretch of nature-aided art.

And when night falls, make sure to keep the whimsy going by booking a room at the Seaside Inn, an oceanfront bed and breakfast hotel where each room comes with a funny and funky theme, from Captain's Quarters and Granny's House to Rock and Roll and the Sun, Moon, and Stars Playroom. A couple nights there would be the perfect dose of good-hearted fun for couples and families of five alike.

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For More Information

Tamastslikt Cultural Institute: (541) 966-9748, www.tamastslikt.com

Columbia Gorge Discovery Center: (541) 296-8600, www.gorgediscovery.com

Fort Clatsop National Memorial: www.nps.gov/focl

Seaside Inn: (503) 738-6403, www.theseasideinn.com

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