Travel
Washington
By
Matt Kettmann
'Bet you didn't know we've got a rain forest here in the United States, and
to get there, you'd head north, to the Hoh Rain
Forest in Washington's Olympic National Park, where a by-the-coast
setting, jutting mountain background, and wet weather combine to make one of
the world's few temperate rain forests-and one of the most surreal places for
an adventure this fall.
No
prior outdoor excursions can prepare you for the Dr.
Seuss-ian atmosphere of the Hoh, where lush, drooping
foliage, crooked trees with aimless branches, scurrying
creatures, and an undeniable feeling of wonder lend
to an authentically psychedelic experience. But here's
the catch: The only place to stay within the forest
is in your tent or RV, but since it's a "rain" forest,
many people like to make day treks there rather than
be wet all night.
To
be honest, when I visited the Hoh in the fall season
a couple years back, the sky was clear all night and
only in the morning, when we heard the sounds of rain,
did we begin to worry. But the canopy of moss-covered
trees proved so dense that the raindrops never hit
the ground-a bizarre, one-of-a-kind experience indeed,
and perhaps worth a night's stay at the Hoh.
Plus, since you avoid the long drive from the nearest lodge, the opportunity
to take an early morning hike on the "Hall of Mosses" trail may
just reveal, as it did for me, a pair of magnificent Roosevelt elk chomping
on their grassy breakfast just steps from the path. If you'd like to camp
in the Hoh, spots are a mossy stone's throw from the visitors center.
Staying
dry can't be overvalued, however, so leave the tent
at home, and book a room at the Kalaloch
Lodge, located at the southern coastal
point of the Olympic
National Park and a little less than
two hours drive from the Hoh Rain Forest. Conveniently
located just off U.S. Highway 101, Kalaloch's historic
main lodge and more than 40 creek- and oceanside cabins
put you on the frontlines of Washington's rugged coast,
with chances to spot elk, bears, migrating whales,
river otters, and bald eagles.
Then
there are myriad beach attractions, from digging for
clams and investigating tide pools to taking photo-perfect
walks amongst the eroded spires, clumps of driftwood,
and mysterious rocks of America's battered Pacific
Northwestern coast.
Within
a day's drive from either Kalaloch or the Hoh is Lake
Crescent, a narrow, fjord-like mountain
pool of cold, clear water surrounded by picturesque
waterfalls. And just as close are the even more secluded
beaches west of Ozette, where Indian petroglyphs persist
near the closed-off remains of ancient villages of
the Makah Peoples. Head north a bit further toward
Neah Bay to see the remains of this village in the
Makah Museum, then spend the afternoon searching for
whales aboard a chartered boat.
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