Taking the High Road
With geographic forms and features like nowhere else, Oregon and Washington State trails showcase the best of the Far West.

BY CATHY ORR

From ancient volcanoes cloaked in opalescent glaciers to deep, sheer walled canyons, the land of Oregon and Washington State can’t help but bear you back in time. The Cascade Range, one of the dominant landmarks in both states, is a chain of volcanoes running north and south through the west central part of each state. The range’s volcanic activity—which dates back some 35 million years—worked the landscape as a sculptor might re-cast and re-figure an old piece to fashion something new and different.

This rocky spine of land speaks of numerous, ancient cataclysms when lava flowed hot, and ash darkened the skies. At higher elevations, glaciers cut deeply into the mountains’ lava, carving what would become today’s lush, fertile  valleys and clusters of pristine lakes. The tranquil trails you find here today belie such a turbulent past, and the paradox is that riding these trails instills a mood of quiet reflection.

There are great rivers—the Columbia, dividing Oregon from Washington to the north, and the Snake, dividing Oregon from Idaho to the east—long and majestic.

For hundreds of years, first the Indians then white explorers traveled these waterways in search of food and fortune. And today, as they have for centuries, these wet ribbons entreat all manner of wildlife from dense woods to their cool waters, and beckon as well to those thirsting for refreshment of a different nature.

Wilderness areas dot large regions of both Oregon and Washington State, offering trail riders a glimpse of the Far West as Lewis and Clark may have seen it nearly 200 years ago. We highlight only a few trails here, but they come highly recommended.

We offer tips for planning a ride that’s not only a genuine equestrian treat, but also treats the land with respect. Such planning will help ensure that future generations get a chance to share your experience. It may involve extra effort, but it’s the cowboy way.

TRAIL TALK
Oregon
Pacific Crest Trail

This magnificent trail is one of eight—and one of the first—National Scenic Trails in the continental United States. As such, these are administered by federal agencies as continuous, protected scenic corridors for outdoor recreation. The entire trail is nearly 2,650 miles, coursing the sides of the Cascades and Sierra Nevada mountain ranges from Canada to Mexico, passing through 25 national forests and nine national parks.

Oregon celebrated the completion of its 430-mile portion of the PCT in 1987. This section is the shortest and easiest to ride. The crest of the Cascades here is gentle and relatively constant in elevation. From its southernmost end near 4,300 feet elevation, going north, trail riders traverse seven wilderness areas.

Crater Lake, in Crater Lake National Park, partially fills a volcanic depression formed more than 7,000 year ago. Numerous other volcanoes stand as sentinels along the trail, including the main attraction in northern Oregon, 11,200-foot Mt. Hood, wrapped in a glacier cape.

The Oregon portion of the PCT shows off its best between July and September. For more information on the PCT, contact the Pacific Crest Trail Association at (888) PCTRAIL or visit www.pcta.org.

Wallowa-Whitman National Forest

The Wallowa-Whitman National Forest—approximately 2 million acres of it—lies in the northeast corner of Oregon.

On the west side of the forest, Eagle Cap Wilderness encompasses more than 360,000 acres and straddles the backbone of the Wallowa Mountains. It’s a place of granite grandeur, with 17 peaks over 9,000 feet in elevation and more than 30 lakes above 7,000 feet.

On the east side, the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area features the Hells Canyon Wilderness—an area of nearly 215,000 acres that envelops a long stretch of the awesome Snake River where the Snake divides Oregon from Idaho.

The climate in this part of Oregon is relatively dry, but at mountain elevations, riders may encounter afternoon thunderstorms in summer and dangerous snowstorms in winter. Summer temperatures can climb into the 90s during the day but drop into the 40s at night.

Mosquitos and horseflies can be a problem so bring bug repellent. The average winter temperature range is 20-30 degrees but can drop into the sub-zero range. Due to snowdrifts, wilderness trails are open usually only during August and September.

Trailrides are never without risk, but with careful preparation, you don’t have to worry. Rugged terrain, such as steep slopes, vertical cliffs that drop hundreds of feet, and rocks, present a number of potential hazards. Know how to prevent and handle possible injury to you and your animals. Learn how to keep from getting lost and what to do if you get lost.

Finally, be familiar with weather hazards and what to do in the event of fire.

And while there are numerous lakes and streams, Giardia—a parasite in humans—may be a contaminant in the water. Contaminant sources, such as human and animal waste, make it wise to produce potable water with the use of an effective water filter or by boiling your drinking water for at least five minutes.

To help prevent the problem, bury human waste, and tether or confine stock at least 200 feet from all water sources.

There are about 47 trailheads with access to Eagle Cap and 11 in Hells Canyon NRA. Check on group size limits in wilderness areas. You’ll find wilderness permits—they’re free but required for access—at trailheads. For maps, call the Nature of the Northwest Information Center in Portland at (503) 872-2750.

You also can call the Wallowa Mountains Visitor Center at (541) 426-5546. For information from local riders, visit www.oregonequestriantrails.org

Washington
Pacific Crest Trail