Great Rides: South Texas
Take a horseback odyssey to the southern part of Texas.

BY DEBRA BOKUR
American Cowboy magazine

When you think of the cowboy way of life, it’s only natural for Texas to spring to mind: Texas Rangers, cattle, and the Alamo are all familiar and indelible parts of its culture. Even the hearts of city-dwelling horsemen are stirred by images of colorful herds of horses galloping across the wide open range, or dusty cowpokes pushing a cattle herd beneath a setting sun.

It was Franciscan missionaries who were responsible for bringing cattle ranching to Texas in the 1700s. The missions they established all included farm animals, and the cattle that they allowed to roam at will across the land became the progenitors of the Texas Longhorn breed. While the days of land selling for four cents an acre have definitely faded into history, cowboys still rule the range here—and it’s easy to capture some of the old glory for yourself.

In many areas of Southern Texas, you can pull on your boots and experience some of the best of the true West. For starters, Texas is home to the legendary King Ranch in the deep southern part of the state. Established in 1854 by Captain Richard King, the ranch is one of the largest in the world. In November, visitors to Kingsville can participate in the Ranch Breakfast hosted there as an annual event. After enjoying an authentic—and hearty— cowboy breakfast, replete with refried beans, tortillas, and biscuits and gravy—you can kick back and watch team penning exhibitions and horseshoeing demonstrations, as well as listen to cowboy stories, poetry, and music. 

One of the very best directions to aim your truck and trailer is toward the town of Bandera, situated in the Texas Hill Country. Located south of Austin and just west of San Antonio, Bandera is known as the Cowboy Capital of the World, and was once the main staging depot during the days of the West’s great cattle drives.

Today, the Hill Country State Natural Area, operated by Texas Parks and Wildlife, offers a 36-mile-long multi-use trail system that winds through canyons, springs, and grasslands. Equestrian campsites among the junipers and oaks are available with two-horse corrals, water tanks, and ample truck and trailer parking— and the occasional armadillo visit. Horse boarding is available at nearby Solitaire Ranch (830-796-4764). If you’d rather rent a horse than bring one with you, nearby outfits including the Running R Ranch (830-796-3984) and Desert Hearts Cowgirl Club (830-796-7001) offer guided trail rides. (Note that the park area is closed to the public on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) Maps and guides to the Bandera Trails are available from the Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau (800-364-3833).

While you’re in the area, consider taking a San Antonio stroll. In this colorful and historic city, the legacy of the West and the days of cattle drives and Mexican cowboys, called vaqueros, lives on. This is, after all, the town that gave birth to the term "maverick," a word with ties to long-ago resident Samuel A. Maverick. Apparently, the eccentric Mr. Maverick was something of a contrarian, and had a quirky habit of allowing his unbranded cattle to wander unchecked across the plains.

Trail riding is a popular and growing activity throughout Texas. The Texas Equestrian Trail Riders Association (TETRA), a state-wide organization composed of riders, breeders, and professionals, was formed in 1997 to promote trail riding in all areas of the state. Group members actively encourage environmental responsibility and public education, while working to develop, improve, and maintain equestrian trails. TETRA has also formed partnerships with a number of organizations, including Texas Parks and Wildlife, Texas Farm Bureau, Texas A&M, Texas Southwestern Cattle Raisers Association, and the U.S. Department of Forestry. 

As for great rides, Jim Carr, native Texan and owner of P&J Tours, favors the Big Bend area in the southwestern corner of the state. Big Bend, which includes a 300,000-acre ranch property that was once home to huge herds of Longhorns, is 1.5 million acres of wilderness and park lands featuring rugged terrain that varies from deserts and prairies to the 7,000- foot peaks of the Chisos Mountain’s South Rim. Bordered by the Rio Grande, it’s the ideal place for a riding excursion. 

Though his career once revolved around underwater photography, Carr has been leading rides through this area for the past five years. He operates his horseback rides during spring and fall months, and limits the size of the rides by taking out small groups of riders who are treated to sing-alongs with local cowboys. "The singers," he says, "are local guys who’ve been cowboys most of their lives." Rides are cut off in November due to unpredictable weather, when it can be 95 degrees one day and freezing that night.